Rock Climbing and Lycra in China

If you know me well enough, then you'll understand that climbing and lycra go hand in hand. Lycra tights are just so comfy under a harness, very light to carry, look great in photographs, in fact, don't get me started. LOVE lycra tights. Anyway, my lycra tights have just had a remarkable trip to China! The whole family of tights made the trip and were proudly worn all week by the brave Ali, Miles and Giles. Lycra tights don't leave a whole lot to the imagination on guys!

What a whirlwind trip out east! I flew via Dubai to Hong Kong and after 16 hours of flight I arrived feeling as rough as the back end of a badger but very happy to see Ali again after 3 months of sporadic skype chats with dubious internet connections and even more dubious moustaches to contend with. Goodness knows how we managed!

Ali's solution to my jetlag was marching up to Lion Rock which is a very impressive buttress overlooking the city. Hong Kong felt very hot and humid but I have to say it was a relief to be escaping away from endless news reports of more rain and flooding. We had an avid audience on the climbs which was entertaining. We posed and waved and bounced down the abseil with great panache for all the iphones pointing our way.

Ali on East Flake Route, high above the city

Food while I was away was a whole extra adventure to think about and I dove headfirst into chinese food with a shared hotpot. The spice mostly blew my head off and was just a warm up for what was to come. I have discovered, however, that I am not entirely into tofu. My mouth doesn't know how to deal with bland mush. Not keen...

Ali, Miles, Giles, Eben and I then packed our bags for Yangshuo, beautiful, sharp, limestone, bolt-clipping joy. At this point I might add that this week was an amazing week for transport. So far I've bagged trains, planes and boats. Next up was the 11 hour night bus. Packed in like sardines but quite a novel way to travel. In the week that followed we experimented with bikes, tandems, local buses and scooters. I have to say that scooters were my favourite but for comedic value, Miles and Giles sharing a tandem was definitely a highlight.

I now have vast respect for anyone having ridden a tandem for any kind of long distance trip. At the back I was completely out of control and my feet mostly pedalled the air furiously trying to catch back up with my pedals which were moving at the same speed as Ali's. Ali seems to think that Miles' and Giles' relationship was tested much more than ours though!

Taken by Ali, on the exposed arete of
"Eggstreme Eggsposure"

The climbing in China is very exciting because it is such a new, wild and intriguing place to visit. China has never been the easiest country to travel in but as it becomes more accesible, the extent of the climbing potential is becoming evident. Whole new areas are yet to be discovered and even looking around Yangshuo, there is miles and miles of rock to be explored. Just catching edges of Eben's climbing talk, there are kilometer high sandstone towers, huge rock arches and new festivals in brand-new, unspoiled climbing destinations. Sadly, I wouldn't normally fly over the likes of El Chorro and Kalymnos to come to China for limestone sport climbing, but I would definitely recommend Yangshuo for anyone already out this way.

At the top of Jeremy's Gigi

Wonderful Yangshuo landscape

This landscape is unique enough to have made it onto the 20 Yuan note. It really is breathtaking and although our weather was mostly overcast, it took nothing from the grandeur of the karst towers.

Szechuan Beef, Pork Stuffed Snails and Eben

Eben was our hero this week. China turned out not to be the easiest place to be and although we would have muddled though, much to the chinese entertainment, Eben was our guide and translator. I do feel like I have to tell you about the preserved eggs though. My gag reflexes are still in overdrive. The other names for this dish are "thousand year old eggs" and "chemical eggs". The names do not endear me to this meal. The yolks have turned dark green/black and the white has gone red and jelly-like. Its served sliced up with vinegar, garlic and chili. Just thinking about it has got my face all screwed up again. Food for a horror film.

Well, what an amazing week. Really good climbing and such great fun company. Even after two trips I don't feel like I've "done" China. Its a bizarre place that I don't really understand. A communist country that feels more capitalist than anywhere else I've ever been. Somewhere I will have to come back to later on, perhaps with a bit more worldly knowledge.

Merry Christmas everyone and lets have an awesome start to 2013! My next trip is up to Scotland (Torridon) for Hogmanay. Thanks to Christmas I have a new outdoorsy wardrobe and I'm itching for the next adventure!

Movember

My overall feeling for November 2012 is not a particularly happy one. Perhaps in time, I shall look back on this month as being positive and productive, but for now it feels like my proverbial jam pot has run dry.

Halfway through October, my Dad found he had an unnaturally high PSA (Prostate-Specific Anitgen) and, after a biopsy, discovered well established cancer. If he had rung me and told me he had a prostate infection, I think I'd have shuddered and wished him a speedy recovery but the word Cancer is a shocking one. A month and a half later and Dad is cancer free but I would not wish that month and a half on anybody. I have the utmost respect for anyone with any form of life changing condition that is longer term.

Our choices were simple. Hormone treatment and radiotherapy lasting a year, or surgery. It wasn't an easy decision because the Doctors cannot give a clear idea of which is a better choice. In the end, Dad chose the bish-bash-bosh method of surgery. Hormone treatment meant he would have to go through the menopause! Surgery was a good option because the cancer was contained but it is invasive and, quite frankly, terrifying. On the day, I took him in to hospital at 7am. My choices were either to stay and twiddle my thumbs or go home and stay busy. Mum was brilliant and after swimming, she took me into town for coffees and company and we went climbing. I panicked every time I put my phone down, I couldn't concentrate, even on the climbing! Eventually we got the call at 8:30 that evening from a confused and stoned sounding Dad. He came home the next day prostate free but catheterised and very uncomfortable.

A week and a half after surgery he is no less comfortable, but the catheter is due out on monday and after that he should feel much more normal and the recovery can be far more positive. We spend our days doing endless crossword puzzles and watching mindless TV. I have to say, I am sick to the teeth of antique programmes! They seem to be all the rage... We have also dealt with car problems, a loss of a substantial amount of Dad's furniture, and the passing away of one of Dad's long-time friends. Dad has had so much support though and I cannot thank everyone enough, those who sent cards, those who have visited and those who have donated to his Movember fund. Particularly my Mum who is doing her best to keep us occupied with climbing, curries, film nights and coffees in town. Dad is still mostly bed bound but slowly moving around more and it really is all up from here.

I am writing this really because Dad was saved by his awareness. The symptoms of his cancer would not have been noticeable until it was too late. Movember is an event run every year where men grow moustaches to raise money and awareness for Prostate and Testicular Cancer. Cancer may be a shocking word but it is worth taking a moment to think about. Our experience of it was very short and comparatively uncomplicated. It has been horrid and grim but I cannot begin to imagine what it could have been like without Dad having been aware. Prostate cancer runs in the male side of our family and now my brother will have to think hard about how to deal with that. Hopefully he won't ever have to deal with it but fortunately he will be in the know. And now, anyone reading this, so will you.

Well done brave Dad!

P.s. His Movember page is still open for donations. Perhaps we can get him to a nice round £1000

http://uk.movember.com/mospace/5300673

Thanks everyone!

Remember, remember...

Last night's show at Twyford Prep School

The last battle of Star Wars, while Guy Fawkes burns merrily in the background

A very successful Bonfire Night at Twyford for old, new and present pupils and their families.

Posh Frocks and Heavy Lifting

Before anyone reads this, I have definitely not got the hang of formatting all the photos and captions and stuff yet. Technology is still a needle in a haystack for me! Anyway...

A rather sudden change of plans has had me move back to Hampshire for the near future. Back in Winchester daaarrrling! Its actually very pretty because the weather is rather milder than up north and all the christmas lights are already going up. Soppy I know, but I quite like the winter feel.

Just a couple of weeks ago, two events which had me dressing completely out of my ordinary scruffbag attire were my Grandparents 50th wedding anniversary and my Uncle's British wedding reception (he was married in April in the Bahamas - a SUPERB way to spend a week). The anniversary was held at a very posh hotel in the New Forest and we were treated to a car museum, 5 types of jacuzzi, an exceptional meal and tiger suits.

The REAL Chitty Chitty Bang Bang

There was a big James Bond
display with all the cars and
bikes and underwater torpedo
things that he rode in and
all that stuff. Mum and me mainly
just liked the pictures...

The happy 50 year married couple. 

This does not, I mean almost
never, happen. Heels!

Om nom nom nom....

The cutest, most heart-warming
thing I have ever seen.
Granny and Dandan in their
anniversary gifts. Dandan even
has his new boxers on the outside.

Our second posh do was in a smart, riverside restaurant near Oxford and it goes without saying, my one posh outfit had to make a second appearance. It was lovely to see all my not-so-little-anymore cousins.

(Not entirely sure what's going on with all the different sizes and placements... downloading these pictures went a bit haywire!)

Lots of photos to share with my family. I feel like I haven't seen some of this lot for a long time... And from what I hear some of these small people are growing up to be serious ninjas! Ted was caught halfway up a drainpipe and is enjoying climbing EVERYTHING at the moment. Good going at the age of 6. Little legends in the making.

Now I am back in Hampshire, with the sad news that my Dad has prostate cancer and the next few months will be quite a trial for him. The last few weeks have been particularly busy as he was moving house! We now have ragged arms from the lifting of endless furniture and boxes and poor old Dad's head is rather shattered with the stress of it all. However, one packet of Rolo cookies and an AWESOME new James Bond film later, and we are settled in a nice new place, everything sorted and buzzing with the excitement of next years plans.........

Oooh, and rather relevant, what with my Dad's diagnosis, Ali Rose is growing a moustache for Movember and is raising money for Prostate Cancer UK so if anyone has any pennies spare then here's the page:

http://www.justgiving.com/Alastair-Rose

Goodbye Alex Hockin and good luck on your adventures round the world!

Good and Bad Adrenaline

An eventful few weeks back in Englandshire! Adrenaline has hardly left my system... The weather seems to be never-ending greyness and rain but I've found a mad few who are just like me and keen to make the most of it. I am no longer living under some stairs acting butler, but I've moved in with an old university climber friend and his dog Theo. Work at the climbing wall is great fun, seeing the old staff team again and it is very heart warming to be remembered by the groups I was teaching last winter! Here are some photos of fun times as I keep myself busy until very exciting aventure plans happen in december...

Leck Beck near Kirkby Lonsdale with Dan, Michael, Tom and Bertie. The jump goes from the side of the waterfall and you have to leap right out and half over a tree to hit the best bit of water but it was very refreshing. Small adrenaline rush. Bertie was painfully funny when he howled watching us jump. I never thought a dog could make such a horrific noise, screaming!


My poor old car has been written off. A minor incident left me with a sore neck and a very sad looking Clio. BIG and bad adrenaline rush. She is soon to be picked up by the scrapyard and turned into other things. Thank you Sweetie for looking after my things in Scotland and *mostly* getting me round and about, not to mention helping me pass my driving test!

Photo by Tom

Bimble (noun) - A short walk involving kneedeep water, steep fast flowing ghylls, horrendous weather conditions and hilariously inappropriate clothing.

Kentmere on Sunday 30th turned out to be well and truly GRIM. Our bimble up to the reservoir turned into a scramble up a ghyll and almost swimming across a field! Another small adrenaline rush. Joe and Charms were called into the plan at short notice and came in jeans and cotton tshirts. The jeans ended up round their necks, hence the boxer short fashion icon Joe in the photo.

In need of doing something mad, Mr Greaves, Charms and I have also ticked a life box by jumping off the Lancaster aquaduct into the Lune. Charms, being an engineer had already calculated that it would take 1.7 seconds to reach the river from 16.1m and we would hit the water at 40mph. The other two were much braver than me but after backing out to begin with, I decided I had enough gnarlyness in me. I can't back out if they did it! The video is Charms jumping. I was buzzing like a buzzy thing!! AWESOME! Huge adrenaline rush!

Now back down south in Hampshire to spend some days with friends and family. I am mentally preparing myself for a whole weekend of smart dresses, hopefully unladdered tights, and posh talking. My last cocktail dress was complimented by walking boots so perhaps a little more effort is in order for a 50th wedding anniversary and a wedding reception! Plus some quality time with my amazing Dad, Mum and Brother.

Sun, sea, sand and Germans

Welcome back to backpacker land! Again I am surrounded with hippy types with bracelets all over, scruffy hair and oversized rucksacks. Such a nice vibe and its made for a very chilled out week after such a wild and busy summer in Scotland.

Olympos is a really beautiful village on the south coast of Turkey where jungley hills reach right down to the sea just leaving space for a stoney beach. Even in the 5 years since I came here first though, the place has changed. The river through the village is more filled with rubbish, the always-pumping music is more and more western and prices have almost doubled for everything! The hippy feel is still here but its gradually becoming more of a tourist resort. Still, Kadirs, where I'm staying manages to keep the friendliest atmosphere I've ever felt in a tourist resort!

There's lots of friendly faces here, Sonar the music man and Kadir himself "Hello Crazy Girl!!" and lots and lots of Germans. One pack in particular have welcomed me along on their adventures this week. A lads-on-tour gang who are banterful and daft. There's also a middle-aged turk named Ali (a NASA scientist) who seems to think my life is very interesting, and a californian with a drool-worthy camera who smokes something that smells wonderful...

The bar and my bedroom. Possibly the coolest in the whole place and i have cameras pointed in my direction all the time. "Hannah Montana, put your head out the window for my picture pleeeaaase?" Kadirs is entirely wooden houses on stilts, in trees and tucked into nooks and crannies. There are waggon wheels everywhere and it seems that visitors since it first opened have all left some mark - mad colours, pictures and a very homely feel.

 Chimera Fires. Natural flames coming from the rock. An hours forest walk from the next village to Olympos. Amazing to see!

 I didn't actually bring my climbing kit this time having got only hand luggage but there are always many helpful gear junkies! One highlight of my week was meeting German-Turk Mustafa and being taken along climbing on my last day. We spent a most jolly morning climbing with an American couple. AWESOME limestone sport climbing. Lots of very very gnarly turkish climbers too...

 I really can't complain about this beach. Though we do find ourselves bimbling down, finding a patch of shade, playing uno and falling asleep for most of the day. After a week in outrageous temperatures and cloudless skies, I am very untanned! One evening on this beach had us dipping our toes in phosphorecence filled water, listening to rowdy turkish folk songs on an awful sounding guitar and almost giving in to the pleasant smelling joint being passed around...

My week finished with a bit of a bang when I managed to forget entirely what day it was and almost managed to stay too long! Totally should have stayed... However, Mustafa insisted on getting me some dinner so I wouldn't be hungry on the flight, Ali was on call in case I missed the bus and (sadly) I made it to the airport and onto the plane. There are SUCH NICE PEOPLE in the world!!! I am so lucky to keep getting the chance to meet all these people and I am always astounded by how much time and effort people lend me to help me on my bumbling way. I will miss this place and these people a lot. Until next time...

So now back to Kendal to work at the wall for next few months. Hopefully a few trad climbing days out with the old Lancastrian crew and the Lakelanders. I still feel smug about West Scotland getting the best of the weather this summer but lets hope autumn has something to offer... For anyone who knows about my leg, the latest xray has given it a tentative all clear. Happy days!!

Keeping Track and Moving On

Here's to a new blog and keeping track of what I'm up to!

As it stands, I am reading a bit like a braille novel (thanks Jojo!) with tick and midgy bites but another summer on the west coast of Scotland was brilliant as always. Living on a small island in a very tight knit community, with ever changing groups of children racing by to learn their outdoor skills from us. Our friendly neighbours are the eagles, otters, seals, basking sharks, dolphins, porpoises, gannets, the list goes on. Our home is a cosy wooden house, unique and very jolly. Our lives are dictated by the tide and the wind "All hail, Gods of the breeze". We eat outrageous amounts of hearty homecooked food and are constantly entertained by the musical and theatrical talent of our island family. Days off mean sleeping in a van and yomping, climbing, swimming, paddling and drinking. VERY happy adventures.

The view from North Point of Ru'a Fiola, our home island

 Home

 Freshly caught in our pots. Dinner

 On expedition on Scarba in North Bay

 A basking shark. No zoom, no joke!

 Looking North West towards the Isle of Mull

 Ru'a Fiola, Meadhonach, Droma, Iosal seen from Lunga on a lovely classic scottish overcast day

I write this now having left the island and I am moving back to Kendal to work in the Lakeland Climbing Centre (shameless advertising but it's a really good wall to climb at, well worth a visit).

However, this week is to be spent in roasting temperatures, getting sunburnt and catching up on a summer's worth of sleep. I am in Turkey. But that'll be a new blog, in a week.